In recent years many areas of the country, and especially central Texas, have turned to rain water collection as an affordable, efficient, renewable and sustainable source of potable and non-potable water.

Rain collection water systems vary widely; from five gallon buckets under the downspouts of your home, to sophisticated filtering systems and huge storage containers. The water can be used for every day household purposes if filtered properly or for watering the landscape or irrigating crops, and watering animals. Any way you look at it, it is a viable way to harvest a precious resource. Since rainwater has no minerals and few of the chemicals found in ground water it is considered a safe alternative to drilling a well, or using other water sources

The principal of rain water collection is simple. It captures, diverts, and stores rainwater for later use. The general formula states that for every inch of rainwater collected on 1000 square feet of roof (collection surface) the yield will be about 550 or so gallons of rainwater. Rainwater systems can be a do-it-yourself project or you can seek the help of many knowledgeable professionals in your area. The Internet provides a plethora of information about collection and storage systems, vendors and installers.

Basic Components

Regardless of the complexity or simplicity of the system, the domestic rainwater harvesting system comprises six basic components:

• Harvesting surface: the collection surface from which rainfall runs off
• Gutters and downspouts: channel water from the roof to the tank
• Leaf screens, first-flush diverters, and roof washers: components which remove debris and dust from the captured rainwater before it goes to the tank
• Storage tanks: also called Cisterns (minimum 5000 gal. per person)
• Delivery system: gravity-fed or pumped to the end use
• Treatment/purification: for potables systems, filters and other methods to make the water safe to drink

Basic Costs

Costs vary according to the complexity of the system you choose. Five gallon buckets can be picked up just about anywhere for $5.00! However, if you are seriously considering a rain water collection system, then you will need to spend a little more. And depending on what you are going to use the end product for, you may spend a lot more. But, it may still be less expensive than drilling a 500 foot well and tapping into the many delicate aquifers in central Texas.

• Tanks: $3500 (5,000 gal) and up
• Roof washer: $400-$700 (remove debris from the collection surface)
• Gutters and down spouts: $500-$1500 depending on the square footage of the collection surface.
• Treatment, filtration and purification: systems vary wildly, but most will start in the $2000.00 range.
• Maintenance: Count on replacing UV bulbs, carbon filters and sediment filters regularly. These costs can run as little as $150.00 annually if you shop wisely.

Real Estate and Rain Water

When considering purchasing a home that has a rain water collection system as the only source of water for the home, make sure that your lender will carry the financing on the home. Unfortunately, there are many lenders that will consider rain water systems to be a non-constant source of potable water and deny financing. There are many small local banks and financing institutions that will do the job, but you will need to do your research first!

No matter how you look at it, rainwater collection is a great alternative compared to more conventional systems. Water is fast becoming a precious dwindling resource, and our first defense is to conserve what we have, but when it falls out of the sky, and you can catch it for free, why not do a little "Singing in the Rain?"

Roof: Radiant Barriers

What is a radiant barrier?

Radiant barriers are materials that are installed in buildings to reduce summer heat gain and winter heat loss, and hence to reduce building heating and cooling energy usage. The potential benefit of attic radiant barriers is primarily in reducing air-conditioning cooling loads in warm or hot climates. Radiant barriers usually consist of a thin sheet or coating of a highly reflective material, usually aluminum, applied to one or both sides of a number of substrate materials. These substrates include kraft paper, plastic films, cardboard, plywood sheathing, and air infiltration barrier material. Some products are fiber reinforced to increase the durability and ease of handling.

Radiant barriers can be used in residential, commercial, and industrial buildings. However, this fact sheet was developed only for applications of radiant barriers in ventilated attics of residential buildings. For information on other applications, see the references at the end of the Fact Sheet.

How are radiant barriers installed in a residential attic?

Radiant barriers may be installed in attics in several configurations. The simplest is to lay the radiant barrier directly on top of existing attic insulation, with the reflective side up. This is often called the attic floor application. Another way to install a radiant barrier is to attach it near the roof. The roof application has several variations. One variation is to attach the radiant barrier to the bottom surfaces of the attic truss chords or rafter framing. Another is to drape the radiant barrier over the tops of the rafters before the roof deck is applied. Still another variation is to attach the radiant barrier directly to the underside of the roof deck.

How do radiant barriers work?

Radiant barriers work by reducing heat transfer by thermal radiation across the air space between the roof deck and the attic floor, where conventional insulation is usually placed. All materials give off, or emit, energy by thermal radiation as a result of their temperature. The amount of energy emitted depends on the surface temperature and a property called the "emissivity" (also called the "emittance"). The emissivity is a number between zero (0) and one (1). The higher the emissivity, the greater the emitted radiation.

A closely related material property is the "reflectivity" (also called the "reflectance"). This is a measure of how much radiant heat is reflected by a material. The reflectivity is also a number between 0 and 1 (sometimes, it is given as a percentage, and then it is between 0 and 100%). For a material that is opaque (that is, it does not allow radiation to pass directly through it), when the emissivity and reflectivity are added together, the sum is one (1). Hence, a material with a high reflectivity has a low emissivity, and vice versa. Radiant barrier materials must have high reflectivity (usually 0.9, or 90%, or more) and low emissivity (usually 0.1 or less), and must face an open air space to perform properly.

On a sunny summer day, solar energy is absorbed by the roof, heating the roof sheathing and causing the underside of the sheathing and the roof framing to radiate heat downward toward the attic floor. When a radiant barrier is placed on the attic floor, much of the heat radiated from the hot roof is reflected back toward the roof. This makes the top surface of the insulation cooler than it would have been without a radiant barrier and thus reduces the amount of heat that moves through the insulation into the rooms below the ceiling.

Under the same conditions, a roof mounted radiant barrier works by reducing the amount of radiation incident on the insulation. Since the amount of radiation striking the top of the insulation is less than it would have been without a radiant barrier, the insulation surface temperature is lower and the heat flow through the insulation is reduced.

Radiant barriers can also reduce indoor heat losses through the ceiling in the winter. Radiant barriers reduce the amount of energy radiated from the top surface of the insulation, but can also reduce beneficial heat gains due to solar heating of the roof. The net benefits of radiant barriers for reducing winter heat losses are still being studied.

How does a radiant barrier differ from conventional attic insulation?

Radiant barriers perform a function that is similar to that of conventional insulation, in that they reduce the amount of heat that is transferred from the attic into the house. They differ in the way they reduce the heat flow. A radiant barrier reduces the amount of heat radiated across an air space that is adjacent to the radiant barrier. The primary function of conventional insulation is to trap still air within the insulation, and hence reduce heat transfer by air movement (convection). The insulation fibers or particles also partially block radiation heat transfer through the space occupied by the insulation.

Conventional insulations are usually rated by their R-value. Since the performance of radiant barriers depends on many variables, simple R-value ratings have not been developed for them.

What are the characteristics of a radiant barrier?

All radiant barriers have at least one reflective (or low emissivity) surface, usually a sheet or coating of aluminum. Some radiant barriers have a reflective surface on both sides. Both types work about equally well, but if a one-sided radiant barrier is used, the reflective surface must face the open air space. For example, if a one-sided radiant barrier is laid on top of the insulation with the reflective side facing down and touching the insulation, the radiant barrier will lose most of its effectiveness in reducing heating and cooling loads.

Emissivity is the property that determines how well a radiant barrier will perform. This property is a number between 0 and 1, with lower numbers indicating better potential for performance. The emissivity of typical, clean, unperforated radiant barriers is about 0.03 to 0.05. Hence they will have a reflectivity of 95 to 97 percent. Some materials may have higher emissivities. It is not always possible to judge the emissivity just by visual appearance. Measured emissivity values should be part of the information provided by the manufacturer.

A radiant barrier used in the attic floor application must allow water vapor to pass through it. This is necessary because, during the winter, if there is no effective vapor retarder at the ceiling, water vapor from the living space may condense and even freeze on the underside of a radiant barrier lying on the attic floor. In extremely cold climates or during prolonged periods of cold weather, a layer of condensed water could build up. In more moderate climates, the condensed water could evaporate and pass through the radiant barrier into the attic space. While most uniform aluminum coatings do not allow water vapor to pass through them, many radiant barrier materials do allow passage of water vapor. Some allow water vapor passage through holes or perforations, while others have substrates that naturally allow water vapor passage without requiring holes. However, excessively large holes will increase the emissivity and cause a reduction in the radiant barrier performance. The ability to allow water vapor to pass through radiant barrier materials is not needed for the roof applications.

What should a radiant barrier installation cost?

Costs for an attic radiant barrier will depend on several factors, including the following:

• Whether the radiant barrier is installed by the homeowner or by a contractor.
• Whether the radiant barrier will be installed in a new home (low cost) or in an existing home (possibly higher cost if done by a contractor).
• What extra "features" are desired; e.g., a radiant barrier with perforations and reinforcements may be more expensive than a "basic" radian barrier.
• Any necessary retrofit measures such as adding venting (soffit, ridge, etc.).
• Whether the radiant barrier is installed on the attic floor or on the rafters.

Radiant barrier costs vary widely. As with most purchases, some comparison shopping can save you money. A survey of nine radiant barrier manufacturers and contractors representing 14 products, taken by the Reflective Insulation Manufacturers Association (RIMA) in 1989, shows the installed costs of radiant barriers to range as shown in Table 1.

In some cases, radiant barriers are included in a package of energy saving features sold to homeowners. When considering a "package deal," you may want to ask for an itemized list that includes material and installation costs for all measures included. Then shop around to see what each item would cost if purchased individually before you make a decision.

What should conventional insulation cost?

Heating and cooling bills can also be reduced by adding conventional attic insulation. So that you can have some basis for comparison shopping, typical installed costs for adding various levels of insulation are given in Table 2. These costs are typical for insulation installed by contractors. Actual insulation costs will vary from region to region of the country, will vary with the type of insulation selected (blown, or loose-fill, insulation is usually lower in price than "batt" insulation), and may vary from one local contractor to another. You can expect to deduct 20% to 50% for a do-it-yourself application.

Information provided by the Department of Energy

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No matter how efficient your heating and cooling system is, it won't make a difference if your walls and ceiling can't hold in heated and cooled air. Your HVAC system can be responsible for up to 70 percent of a home's energy use. That's why insulation helps out in a big way.

Energy-efficient insulation comes in many forms and prices vary widely. Adding insulation (including water heater insulation) can benefit homeowners in several ways:

• Lower utility bills - insulation often pays for itself in a few years; then it's all savings.
• Higher resale value of an efficient home with low bills.
• Increased comfort due to uniform temperature throughout the home. The home stays consistently warmer in winter and cooler in summer.

An energy audit can show how much insulation you have and how much more you need, but attic, including the door or hatch cover and exterior walls are a priority.

R-value and you

R-value is a measure of how well insulation resists heat transfer, meaning how much heat is let out of or into the home. Generally a higher R-value means better insulation, but climate, installation, building design, and type of materials all factor in to determining the right amount for your home.

Here's a link to a handy zip code calculator that lets you enter information about where you live and what you're insulating. It compiles weather and cost information by region and tells you what R-value will be most economical.

Insulation for your health

Of course, R-value has nothing to do with how health-friendly the insulation is. There are some insulation types that just aren't up to green home standards. But that's OK because there are also several healthy insulation alternatives that can provide comfort and leave you worry-free - as long as you balance out the efficiency measures with adequate ventilation. Insulation comes in a variety of forms. Loose fill is blown onto attic rafter spaces and wall cavities. Rigid foam boards are usually put between the interior wall and the house's siding, and foam is sprayed into wall cavities and used to seal air leaks. Blanket rolls and batts are used in attics and unfinished walls and cavities. Properly installed, both loose fill and rolls and batts are effective at reducing heat loss from conduction and air infiltration. Insulation product Directory http://www.greenhomeguide.com/index.php/product/C237

Three easy to install green insulation options: http://www.greenhomeguide.com/index.php/knowhow/entry/977/C236/

Content sources: US Dept of Energy, www.renewableplanet.com, www.greenhomeguide.com

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Indoor air is three times more polluted than outdoor air, and according to the EPA, is considered to be one of the top 5 hazards to human health. Paints and finishes are among the leading causes. Paints and finishes release low level toxic emission into the air for years after application. The source of these toxins is a variety of VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds) which, until recently, were essential to the performance of the paint. Exposure to VOC's in paint can trigger asthma attacks, eye irritation and respiratory problems, nausea and dizziness among other symptoms. Prolonged exposure has been linked to kidney and liver disease and even cancer. New environmental regulations, and consumer demand, have led to the development of low-VOC and zero-VOC paints and finishes. Most paint manufacturers now produce one or more non-VOC variety of paint. These new paints are durable, cost-effective, and less harmful to human and environmental health. Given the health concerns of consumers and new government regulations, alternative paints have been coming on the market over the past few years and now present a well- rounded, economical choice over VOC intensive paints. Voluntary standards for VOC content in alternative paint products have been established by Green Seal^R, an independent non-profit that sets standards for environmentally responsible or "green" products. The Green Seal certification for Standard GS-11 is based on VOC content, the absence of chemicals, durability and performance among other criteria.

Benefits

• Health — reduced toxins benefit everyone, including those with allergies and chemical sensitivities
• Environment — reduced landfill, groundwater, and ozone depleting contaminants
• Effective — low-VOC products perform well in terms of coverage, scrubability, and hideability (covering flaws on previous coats)
• Water-Based — easy cleanup with soap and warm water
• Little or No Hazardous Fumes — low odor during applications; no odor once cured. No off-gassing. Painted areas can be occupied sooner, with no odor complaints.
• Not Deemed Hazardous Waste — cleanup and disposal greatly simplified

Types of Non-Toxic Paints and Finishes

The term "non-toxic" is used here in its broadest sense. With paints and finishes, it's more a matter of degree. Even zero-VOC formulations contain some small amounts of toxins. Here are three general categories of non-toxic (or low-toxic) paints: natural paints, zero-VOC, and low-VOC.

Natural Paints and Finishes

These are paints made from natural raw ingredients such as water, plant oils and resins, plant dyes and essential oils, natural minerals such as clay, chalk and talcum; milk casein, natural latex, beeswax, earth and mineral dyes. Water-based natural paints give off almost no smell. The oil-based natural paints usually have a pleasant fragrance of citrus or essential oils. Allergies and sensitivities to these paints is uncommon. These paints are the safest for your health and for the environment:

• The Real Milk Paint Company - non-toxic paint made with milk protein, lime, clay, and earth pigments.
• Aglaia- Natural finishes for many applications, from high quality wall paints to specialty paints for plasters or glazing.
• Livos- Organic paint, stains, oils and waxes made using all natural ingredients. Coatings are linseed oil and citrus oil based, non toxic, low-VOC and are designed primarily for wood.
• Auro- Solvent-free, water-based natural paints and primers, finishes, stains and adhesives.
• EcoDesign's BioShield- Line of natural paints and finishes.
• Weather-Bos- Line of natural stains, finishes and paints. Blends of natural oils and resins designed to adhere to the wood, forming a monolithic bond.
• SoyGuard- soy-based exterior stains, water repellants and sealers for wood surfaces.
• Silacote- made from natural mineral compounds, for use on masonry, concrete and wallboard; interior/exterior.
• Anna Sova- natural paints from milk casein, titanium dioxide and food-grade ingredients.
• Green Planet Paints- natural clay paints for interiors using unique Mayan clay pigments.

Zero-VOC Paints

Any paint with VOC's in the range of 5 grams/litre or les can be called "Zero-VOC," according to the EPA Reference Test Method 24. Some manufacturers may claim "Zero-VOC's", but these paints may still use colorants, biocides, and fungicides with some VOC's. Adding a color tint usually brings the VOC level up to 10 grams/liter, which is still quite low.

• AFM Safecoat- Flat interior latex; semi-gloss interior enamel. (800-239-0321)
• ICI Lifemaster 2000- Flat, Eggshell, semi-gloss interior; primer. (800 984-5444)
• Best Paint Company- Zero-VOC Interior paints, primers and specialty products (faux glaze, varnish replacement, etc.) and Low-VOC Exterior paints and primers.
• ICI Decra-Shield- exterior zero-VOC paints. (800 984-5444)
• Kelly-Moore Enviro-Cote- ENVIRO-COTE line of paints are zero-VOC. (916 921-0165)
• Devoe Wonder Pure- odor-free interior acrylic latex paints.
• Ecoshield- Zero-VOC, low odor, ethylene glycol-free interior paints. Primer, flat, low-sheen, and semi-gloss. Manufactured by Dunn-Edwards.
• American Pride- Zero-VOC interior latex and acrylic enamel paints.
• Sherwin Williams- new HARMONY line of zero-VOC low-odor latex interior paints. Flat, eggshell, semi-gloss and primer.
• Frazee Paint EnviroKote- line of interior zero-VOC paints: semi-gloss, flat, and primer.
• Allied PhotoChemical- supplies zero-VOC, UV-curable paints, inks and coatings to manufacturers.
• Olympic Paint and Stain- Zero-VOC Olympic Premium interior line.
• Yolo Colorhouse- Zero-VOC, low-odor, premium interior paint.
• Green Planet Paints- Zero-VOC, clay-based interior paints.
• Benjamin Moore Pristine EcoSpec- Zero-VOC, under 1 gram/liter. Flat, eggshell, semi-gloss finishes and a primer.
• Mythic Paints- Zero-VOC, interior and exterior paints, primers.
• Homestead Paints- Zero-VOC, flat and low-sheen interior paints.

Low-VOC Paints

Low-VOC paints, stains, and varnishes use water as a carrier instead of petroleum-based solvents. As such, the levels of harmful emissions are lower than solvent-borne surface coatings. These certified coatings also contain no, or very low levels, of heavy metals and formaldehyde. The amount of VOC's varies among different "low-VOC" products, and is listed on the paint can or MSDS. Paints and stains, to meet EPA standards, must not contain VOC's in excess of 200 grams per liter. Varnishes must not contain VOC's in excess of 300 grams per liter. As a general rule, low-VOC paints marketed by reputable paint manufacturers usually meet the 50 g/L VOC threshold. Paints with the Green Seal Standard (GS-11) mark are certified lower than 50 g/L (for flat sheen) or 150 g/L (for non-flat sheen). Low-VOC paints will still emit an odor until dry. If you are particularly sensitive, make sure the paint you buy contains fewer than 25 grams/liter of VOC's.

• Benjamin Moore Aura- Low-VOC, covers most surfaces in a single coat, durable, scrubbable.
• Benjamin Moore Saman- Water-based wood stains
• Cloverdale Horizon- Flat, Eggshell, Semi-Gloss interior enamels
• Cloverdale EcoLogic- Low VOC, under 10 grams/liter. Flat, Eggshell, Semi-Gloss interior.
• Miller Paint- Acro solvent-free interior acrylic line
• Vista Paint- Carefree Earth Coat line
• PPG Architectural Finishes- Pittsburgh Paints Pure Performance line
• OIKOS Paints- Interior and exterior paints, low voc, solvent-free.
• Timber Ox Green- vegetable oil based, low voc wood stain and preservatives.

Ethylene Glycol

Ethylene Glycol is a solvent used in latex paints, is listed as a hazardous substance and a toxic air contaminant under many federal and state regulations. A clear, colorless, odorless liquid, ethylene glycol and its vapor can be toxic to humans. Exposure may cause irritation to the skin, eyes, nose, throat and lungs, and allergic reactions are possible. Overexposure could lead to nausea, vomiting, drowsiness, coma, and respiratory failure. Repeated overexposure can permanently damage the kidneys. Among the major latex paint brands, the full line of Dunn-Edwards paints is ethylene glycol-free.

Non-Toxic Paint Strippers

Most paint strippers are caustic - they work by melting the paint. The active ingredient, methylene chloride, is a potential carcinogen. A new generation of biodegradable paint strippers is now entering the market. They are water-soluble, non-caustic and non-toxic- some can even be washed down the drain.

• CitriStrip- from Specialty Environmental Technologies, in Auburn Hills, MI.
• Woodfinisher's Pride- from W.M.Barr & Co, in Memphis, TN.
• Ameristrip- from Safe Alternatives Corp, in Ridgefield, CT.
• Peel Away- from Dumond Chemicals, in New York. (212-869-6350)
• RemovAll and Bio-Wash- from Napier Environmental Technologies in Vancouver BC.

The active ingredient in these products is N-Methylpyrrolidone, an organic solvent. Rather than burning or melting, the compound chemically changes the paint itself, softening its bond with the substrate and changing its structure so it can't harden again. The downside? These new strippers are more expensive than their traditional counterparts, and they take longer to work.

Ease of Implementation

Some painting applications may require coatings that are not available in low- or no-VOC formulas.

Initial Cost: Low- and no-VOC paints typically cost about the same as a manufacturer's premium line of paints.

Operational Cost: Not Applicable

U.S.Code Acceptance: There are no building code limitations on use of low-VOC paints. Low-VOC paints are tested for toxicity, coverage, fire resistance, and durability in the same manner as conventional paints. Regulating bodies include Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) and Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The National Volatile Organic Compound Emission Standards for Architectural Coatings became effective in 1999. The regulations limit VOC content of flat paint to 250 grams/liter and non-flat to 380 grams/liter. The Ozone Transport Commission (OTC) regulates VOC standards in many states. OTC regulations require VOC content of flat paint to be 100 grams/liter or less; non-flat paint 150 grams/liter or less.

Field Evaluations: Not Applicable

Installation: Application techniques for low- and no-VOC paints are the same as for conventional paints and coatings.

Warranty: Not Applicable

Benefits/Costs: Because low- or no-VOC paints have less of an odor and less of an impact on air quality than higher VOC-content paints, they are excellent for use in buildings where it is desirable to maintain good indoor air quality, such as hospitals, schools, or the homes and workplaces of those who are chemically sensitive. When using latex paints, clean up requires only soap and water. Since VOC emissions may contribute to higher ozone levels, use of low-VOC paints may improve overall air quality.

Painting Tips

• Read the label and product literature: Besides general information, look for: VOC Content: Usually listed in grams per liter, this can range from 5 to 200. Using a product with the lowest VOC content will yield the lowest overall health risk. Solids Content: Solids, or pigments, can range in concentration from 25% to 45% by volume. The higher the percent solids, the less volatiles in the paint. EPA, OSHA, DOT Registrations: When a product has an EPA, OHSA or DOT registration number, this means that it contains toxic ingredients which must be monitored. One way to ensure that you are using a product that is safe both for the environment and the applicator is to seek out products which are not registered with these agencies.
• Buy the right amount of paint for the job. Before you begin a painting project, measure the area first. Calculate the area to be painted (height x width = total square feet). One gallon covers about 400 square feet.
• Re-use Turpentine and Paint Thinners. Simply allow used thinner or turpentine to stand in a closed, labeled container until paint or dirt particles settle to the bottom. Pour off the clear liquid and reuse.
• Avoid Cleaning Brushes and Rollers. Paint brushes and rollers used for an on-going project can be saved overnight, or even up to a week, without cleaning at all. Simply wrap the brush or roller snugly in a plastic bag, such as for bread or produce. Squeeze out air pockets and store away from light. The paint won't dry because air can't get to it. Simply unwrap the brush or roller the next day and continue with the job. (This works for water and oil-based paints and stains. It does not work for varnishes or lacquers.)
• Natural Brush Cleaner. Turpentine, made from the resin of coniferous trees, is an environmentally-friendly solvent. It is excellent for cleaning brushes used with oil-based paints, and for cleaning up small drips. Use a short glass jar, filled no higher than the bristles. Add a few drops of dishwashing liquid. After cleaning the brush, rinse with water.
• Circulate. To reduce the impact of indoor air pollutants, circulate fresh air through your house as often as possible. Avoid the use of spray paints altogether. When painting ceilings, especially, be sure to provide cross-ventilation to remove paint fumes. Fumes rise as paint dries, and so with ceilings the fumes dissipate more slowly since there's no air above the paint. You can reduce fresh paint odors by placing a small dish of white vinegar in the room.
• Beware Old Lead Paint. Paint manufactured before the 70's contains lead, which has harmful effects on health and development. If the paint is still in good shape, you can paint over it, or leave it be - lead is only poisonous if ingested or inhaled. If paint must be removed in small areas, wet the surface and scrape carefully. Never sand dry lead paint. Clean up with tri-sodium phosphate (TSP). For large areas, call in a professional certified in lead abatement.
• Store partially full cans upside down. Leftover paint can be saved for months if stored properly. Make sure the lids are well sealed, and then store the cans upside down. This prevents air from getting inside the can and causing the paint to thicken and dry.
• Remember the BUD rule. BUY no more product than you need. Ask your retailer for help in assessing the quantity you need. USE up the entire product you buy. Give leftovers to a neighbor or community organization. DISPOSE of leftovers in a safe, responsible manner.

Additional Information of VOC Paints

Question: "Are there any good organic or low VOC paints that those of us in the lower income brackets can afford? I'd rather not sacrifice great color, either, though I'm open to unusual alternatives!"

Answer: The best non-toxic paints are Zero VOC paints but these will usually cost around $30 a gallon. For a low cost alternative you can opt for low-VOC paints, which are comparable in price to regular paint. If you go to a specialty paint store like Benjamin Moore or Duron, you can usually get any color you desire.

Volatile Organic Compounds are the organic solvents used in standard paint formulations which serve as the carrier for paint pigment. When paint dries, the odor smelled is from the evaporation of VOC's used in the solvent vehicle and the tinting pigments. Some of the more common VOC's used in paint as solvents and preservatives include formaldehyde and benzene. Pigment chemicals can include lead, cadmium and chromium. The "fresh paint" smells we often experience are VOC emissions from volatile chemicals like diethyl phthalate and dibutyl. Because of the negative health effects of VOC's, alternative interior paints are now available that contain extremely low-VOC or no-VOC formulations.

Low VOC Does Not Mean Non-toxic

The elimination of VOC's by paint manufactures does not address the issue of why contaminants not considered VOC's still find their way into paint. For example; some paints contain ammonia and acetone which are highly dangerous chemicals to human health yet they are not required by law to appear on the label.

Fungicides and Biocides are toxic chemicals that are used to prevent mildew growth and extend the shelf life of the product. They may be good for the paint, but they are bad for your health. These chemicals contaminate both indoor and outdoor air for five years or more after the product has been applied! Beware: even low- or no-VOC paints contain these toxins. Pigments are designed to color the paint, but some of the toxic chemicals in paint come from the substances used to color them. One popular zero-VOC paint contains crystalline silica which has been shown to produce cancer in rats and perhaps in humans, yet the paint was awarded the "Green" label. Further, some paint companies, in their quest to reduce VOC's, have added chemicals (usually toxic) to mask the offensive paint smell!!!

What Happens During Manufacturing and Demolition?

According to William McDonough and Michael Braungart in their landmark book Cradle to Cradle, "...being 'less bad' is no good." They go on. "Cutting the amount of toxic waste created or emitted...is a central tenant of eco-efficiency. But reduction in any of these areas does not halt depletion and destruction--it only slows it down, allowing them to take place in smaller increments over a longer period of time. Current studies show that astoundingly small amounts of dangerous emissions can have disastrous effects on biological systems."

This is true for paint emissions during the manufacturing process as well as during incineration. The creation of dangerous particulates during the destruction of older buildings can release a variety of contaminates into the air, water and soil that may go undetected for years--adding to the depletion of the environment. McDonough and Braungart continue; "air, water, and soil do not safely absorb our wastes unless the wastes themselves are completely healthy and biodegradable. We have just too little knowledge about industrial pollutants and their effects on natural systems for "slowing down" to be a healthy strategy in the long term. Consider this: during the normal life cycle of a home or office building which may be a hundred years or so, hundreds or thousands of gallons of primer, paint, sealers, stains and other finishes are spread from floor to ceiling and from wall to wall. A single gallon of low-VOC paint contains thousands of chemicals many of which have not been thoroughly researched for their safety to human health or their impact on the environment. These include: VOC's, Fungicides and Biocides, and Pigments.

A New Approach

But let's take a creative approach. Instead of asking how to reduce the problem of toxicity in paint, shouldn't we ask how to create a paint that is healthy? Or, is there an alternative to paint that is better for the inhabitants and the environment now and in the future? Using the Mcdonough/Braungart eco-effective model of waste equals food, shouldn't our wall and floor finishes be made of a material that is totally non-toxic and biodegradable (not just free of VOC's)?

In the past and even today, there are cultures that finish their floors, walls, and ceilings with a variety of natural materials such as: organic lime washes, clay plaster, straw/mud combinations, milk paint, natural oils, bees wax and other indigenous resources.

AFM and BIOSHIELD--Healthy Paint Manufacturers

AFM and BioShield are two notable suppliers. Both of these companies have been making finishes for more than 20 years. Both maintain the highest standards of human and environmental health far beyond most governmental requirements. Both started making non-toxic paint because it was the right thing for them to do. Doctors and chemically-sensitive people asked them to please make a healthy paint--and so they did. But they both took different approaches.

Each makes two types of finishes : 1) synthetic formulas which contain low or no VOC's, no fungicides or biocides, and natural pigments and 2) naturally-derived formulas which use only raw materials including citrus peel extracts, essential oils, seed oils, tree resins, inert mineral fillers, tree and bee waxes, lead-free dryers and natural pigments. Most of the ingredients have been used for centuries and are low in toxic substances, renewable, and feature a low environmental footprint.

All of these finishes have been formulated and manufactured with children, the elderly, and the chemically sensitive in mind. Many doctors recommend these paints to their patients suffering from allergies, sick building syndrome, or multiple-chemical sensitivity. Again and again, the consensus reports how wonderful these eco-friendly products are to work with and how much easier it is to breathe during the painting process and after completion. You can now purchase paints that do not contain toxic ingredients such as ethylene glycol, formaldehyde, acetone, crystalline silica or ammonia. Most paint companies provide MSDS sheets, which are governmental reports about the ingredients of each product. Additional information available includes application methods and tips on where to use each product. There are also numerous websites for further information.

Most of the popular finishes are available. Some companies provide more than 1,000 colors that can be mixed and have the ability to create almost any custom color you wish. Swatch books are available, as are sample sizes of certain products.

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Did you know that the average home spends about $2,000 on energy bills every year? Change to appliances that have earned the ENERGY STAR, and you can save $75 a year in energy costs, while saving the environment.

Save Energy, Save Money

When buying an appliance, remember that it has two price tags: what you pay to take it home and what you pay for the energy and water it uses. ENERGY STAR qualified appliances incorporate advanced technologies that use 10–50% less energy and water than standard models. The money you save on your utility bills can more than make up for the cost of a more expensive but more efficient ENERGY STAR model. For top performance, premium features, and energy savings, look for energy-efficient clothes washers, refrigerators, dishwashers, room air conditioners and dehumidifiers that have earned the ENERGY STAR. This mark may appear on the appliance, the packaging or the EnergyGuide label.

Learn More About EnergyGuide

All major home appliances must meet the Appliance Standards Program set by the US Department of Energy (DOE). Manufacturers must use standard test procedures developed by DOE to prove the energy use and efficiency of their products. Test results are printed on yellow EnergyGuide label, which manufacturers are required to display on many appliances. This label estimates how much energy the appliance uses, compares energy use of similar products, and lists approximate annual operating costs. Your exact costs will depend on local utility rates and the type and source of your energy. An ENERGY STAR qualified appliance must carry the EnergyGuide label. EnergyGuide labels frequently note whether the product is ENERGY STAR qualified.

How to Buy an Energy-Efficient Home Appliance Produced in Cooperation with the U.S. Department of Energy

You go shopping for a new refrigerator, and you're on a budget. The best buy is the fridge with the lowest sales price, right? Not necessarily. If you buy the lowest-priced refrigerator, you may end up spending more than if you buy a more expensive one. The reason? The cost of owning a home appliance has three components: the initial purchase price, the cost of repairs and maintenance, and the cost to operate it.

To figure out how much you'll spend over the lifetime of the appliance, you have to look at all these costs. The appliance with the lowest initial purchase price, or even the one with the best repair record, isn't necessarily the one that costs the least to operate. Here's an example of how an appliance's energy consumption can affect your out-of-pocket costs.

Suppose you're in the market for a new refrigerator-freezer. Different models of refrigerators with the same capacity can vary dramatically in the amount of electricity they use. For one popular size and configuration, for example, the annual electricity consumption varies across models from a low of about 600 kilowatt-hours a year to a high of more than 800 kilowatt-hours a year. Based on national average electricity prices, that means the annual cost to operate this refrigerator can range from about $50 to $70, depending on which model you buy. A $20 difference in annual operating costs might not sound like much, but remember that you will enjoy these savings year after year for the life of the appliance, while you must pay any difference in purchase price only once. As a result, you may actually save money by buying the more expensive, more energy-efficient model.

You can learn about the energy efficiency of an appliance that you're thinking about buying through the yellow-and-black EnergyGuide label it displays. The Federal Trade Commission's Appliance Labeling Rule requires appliance manufacturers to put these labels on:

• Refrigerators, freezers, dishwashers, clothes washers
• Water heaters, furnaces, boilers
• Central air conditioners, room air conditioners, heat pumps
• Pool heaters

When you shop for one of these appliances in a dealer's showroom, you should find the labels hanging on the inside of an appliance or secured to the outside. The law requires that the labels specify:

• The capacity of the particular model
• For refrigerators, freezers, dishwashers, clothes washers and water heaters, the estimated annual energy consumption of the model
• For air conditioners, heat pumps, furnaces, boilers and pool heaters, the energy efficiency rating
• The range of estimated annual energy consumption, or energy efficiency ratings, of comparable appliances.

Some appliances also may feature the EnergyStar logo, which means that the appliance is significantly more energy efficient than the average comparable model. For more information on the EnergyStar program, operated by the Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency, visit the EnergyStar website at www.energystar.gov.

For An Energy-Smart Deal On Your Next Appliance...

• Read the EnergyGuide label.
• Compare the energy use of competing models.
• Estimate their differences in energy costs.
• Consider both purchase price and estimated energy use when deciding which brand and model to buy.

Why should I care about energy efficiency?

The more energy efficient an appliance is, the less it costs to run, and the lower your utility bills. Using less energy is good for the environment, too; it can reduce air pollution and help conserve natural resources.

Don't all appliances have to be energy efficient?

All major home appliances must meet energy conservation standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. It's the law. But many appliances beat the standard, use even less energy and cost less to run.

What makes one appliance more efficient than another?

Most of the differences are on the inside -- in the motors, compressors, pumps, valves, gaskets and seals, or in electronic sensors that make appliances "smarter." Even if two models look the same from the outside, less-obvious inside features can mean a big difference in your monthly utility bills.

How can I be sure energy efficiency claims aren't just sales hype?

Manufacturers must use standard test procedures developed by the Department of Energy to prove the energy use and efficiency of their products. Many have these tests performed by independent laboratories. The test results are printed on the EnergyGuide labels, which manufacturers are required to put on many of their appliances.

What's the purpose of EnergyGuide labels?

The EnergyGuide labels help you compare the efficiency or annual energy use of competing brands and similar models. Look for the labels on clothes washers, dishwashers, refrigerator/freezers, room air conditioners, water heaters, pool heaters and on central home heating and cooling equipment. If you don't see an EnergyGuide label, ask a salesperson for the information.

Shopping Strategy

1. Select the size and style. Measure the space the appliance will occupy to be sure your new purchase will fit. Make sure that you'll have enough room to open the door or lid fully and enough clearance for ventilation. This may help you narrow your choices as you settle on the best capacity and style.
2. Know where to shop. Appliance outlets, electronics stores and local retailers carry different brands and models. Dealers also sell appliances through print catalogs and the Internet.
3. Compare the performance of different brands and models. Ask to see the manufacturer's product literature. Decide which features are important to you. Ask questions about how the different models operate: Are they noisy? What safety features do they have? What about repair histories? How much water do they use? How energy efficient are they?
4. Estimate how much the appliance will cost to operate. The more energy an appliance uses, the more it will cost to run. Consult the EnergyGuide label to compare the energy use of different models. The difference on your monthly utility bill can be significant, especially when considered over the 10-to-20-year life of the appliance. You could save money over the long run by choosing a model that's more energy efficient, even if the purchase price is higher.
5. Ask about special energy efficiency offers. Ask your salesperson or local utility about cash rebates, low-interest loans or other incentive programs in your area for energy-efficient product purchases -- and how you can qualify.

Tips to Lower Your Monthly Energy Bill

Being an energy-smart consumer means getting the most from the energy you use. Here's how you can cut energy waste without sacrificing comfort or convenience.

• Move your refrigerator if it's near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents. Vacuum the coils every three months to eliminate dirt buildup that reduces efficiency. Check the door gaskets for air leaks. Defrost the freezer when more than a quarter-inch of ice builds up.
• Scrape but don't pre-rinse dishes by hand if you have a dishwasher that automatically pre-rinses or has a rinse/hold cycle. Use the "energy saver" option found on many machines.
• Use pots that fit the size of your stove-top burners. Use lids on your pots and pans so you can cook at a lower burner setting.
• Match the water level and temperature settings on your clothes washer to the size of your load. Don't fill the whole tub for a few small items.
• Clean your clothes dryer filters after each use or as necessary.
• Ensure that the temperature on your water heater is set to 120 degrees. Some thermostats are preset at the factory to 140 degrees.

For More Information

The Federal Trade Commission offers a wide range of business and consumer information online at www.ftc.gov. This information also is available by calling the toll-free helpline at 1-877-FTC-HELP (382-4357) (TDD: 1-866-653-4261) or by writing: Federal Trade Commission, Consumer Response Center, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20580.

The Department of Energy's Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Network offers a clearinghouse of energy-efficiency information at www.eren.doe.gov. This information also is available by calling the toll-free hotline at 1-800-DOE-EREC (363-3732) (TDD: 1-800-273-2957) or by writing: U.S. Department of Energy B EREC, PO Box 3048, Merrifield, VA 22116.

Your state and local energy offices and local utility company also may be good sources of information.

The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive, and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit ftc.gov or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters consumer complaints into the Consumer Sentinel Network, a secure online database and investigative tool used by hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.�

Laundry

About 90% of the energy used for washing clothes is for heating the water. There are two ways to reduce the amount of energy used for washing clothes—use less water and use cooler water. Unless you're dealing with oily stains, the warm or cold water setting on your machine will generally do a good job of cleaning your clothes. Switching your temperature setting from hot to warm can cut a load's energy use in half.

Laundry Tips:

• Wash your clothes in cold water using cold-water detergents whenever possible.
• Wash and dry full loads. If you are washing a small load, use the appropriate water-level setting.
• Dry towels and heavier cottons in a separate load from lighter-weight clothes.
• Don't over-dry your clothes. If your machine has a moisture sensor, use it.
• Clean the lint filter in the dryer after every load to improve air circulation.
• Use the cool-down cycle to allow the clothes to finish drying with the residual heat in the dryer.
• Periodically inspect your dryer vent to ensure it is not blocked. This will save energy and may prevent a fire. Manufacturers recommend using rigid venting material, not plastic vents that may collapse and cause blockages.
• Consider air-drying clothes on clothes lines or drying racks. Air-drying is recommended by clothing manufacturers for some fabrics.
• $ Long-Term Savings Tip: Look for the ENERGY STAR^R and EnergyGuide labels. ENERGY STAR clothes washers clean clothes using 50% less energy than standard washers. Most full-sized ENERGY STAR washers use 18-25 gallons of water per load, compared to the 40 gallons used by a standard machine. ENERGY STAR models also spin the clothes better, resulting in less drying time.
• $ Long-Term Savings Tip: When shopping for a new clothes dryer, look for one with a moisture sensor that automatically shuts off the machine when your clothes are dry. Not only will this save energy, it will save wear and tear on your clothes caused by over-drying.
• $ Long-Term Savings Tip: ENERGY STAR does not label clothes dryers because most of them use similar amounts of energy, which means there is little difference in energy use between models.

Clothes Washers

Residential Clothes Washers

Want to save money and protect the environment? Ask for ENERGY STAR... An ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washer can save you $550 in operating costs over its lifetime compared to a regular clothes washer. ENERGY STAR qualified washers are also better for the environment because lowering energy and water use means less air pollution from power plants and less water going to waste.

• Lower your utility bills and protect the environment. Choosing an ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washer over a standard model can lower your utility bills, save energy, and save water. Qualified models perform more efficiently than standard models without sacrificing performance.
• Save more than money. An ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washer can save you time and help lengthen the life of your clothes.
• Learn what new technology makes washers energy-efficient. New technological advances have allowed ENERGY STAR clothes washers to use significantly less energy and water.
• Buy with confidence using these purchasing tips. Make sure you choose a clothes washer that is the right size and model, and has the appropriate features to fit your needs.
• Get the best performance from your ENERGY STAR qualified washer. Take advantage of simple energy-saving tips and best practices to save more money on your utility bills and avoid maintenance.
• Search for rebates and tax credits. Find local rebates and tax incentives available for ENERGY STAR qualified products in your area.
• Find a store. Locate a store nearby that sells ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washers.

What about clothes dryers?

ENERGY STAR does not label clothes dryers since there is little difference in the energy use between models.

Save Money, Energy and Water — Choose ENERGY STAR Qualified Clothes Washers

The average household does almost 400 loads of laundry each year, consuming about 13,500 gallons of water. Selecting an ENERGY STAR qualified washer instead of a regular clothes washer provides the following benefits:

Save Money

By dramatically reducing energy and water consumption, these units cut utility bills by an average of $50 per year. Over the eleven-year lifetime of the washer, that's enough money to buy a new clothes dryer or a new ENERGY STAR qualified dishwasher.

Save Water

Qualified clothes washers also save 7,000 gallons of water a year. Over the eleven-year life of the washer, that's enough water to fill up three backyard swimming pools or provide a lifetime of drinking water for six people.

Save the Environment

Because they use less energy, qualified clothes washers reduce the air pollution and greenhouse gases caused by burning fossil fuels. By reducing water consumption, they also help protect our lakes, streams, and oceans. In addition to saving an average of $50 per year on your energy and water bills, ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washers can also save you time and help your clothes last longer.

Save Time

Without a bulky agitator there is more usable space in the tub for laundry — especially larger items like comforters. More capacity also means fewer loads of laundry each week. Some agitator-free washers can wash over 20 pounds of laundry at once, compared to 10–15 pounds for a conventional top-loader.

Save Your Clothes

Instead of twisting and pulling clothes around a turning agitator, front-loaders and advanced top-loaders use sophisticated wash systems to flip or spin clothes through a reduced stream of water, washing your clothes gently. This lengthens the life of often-washed items and leads to less lint in the dryer. Because they are so gentle, many models can safely clean silk, wool and other hand-washables.

Most ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washers do not have a central agitator.

Clothes washers that meet ENERGY STAR criteria use next generation technology to cut energy and water consumption by over 40% compared to conventional washers.

ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washers come in either front-load or redesigned top-load designs. Both configurations include technical innovations that help save substantial amounts of energy and water:

• No Central Agitator: Front-loaders tumble clothes through a small amount of water instead of rubbing clothes against an agitator in a full tub. Advanced top loaders use sophisticated wash systems to flip or spin clothes through a reduced stream of water. Both designs dramatically reduce the amount of hot water used in the wash cycle, and the energy used to heat it.
• High Spin Speeds: Efficient motors spin clothes two-three times faster during the spin cycle to extract more water. Less moisture in the clothes means less time and energy in the dryer.

Purchasing Tips

• Ask for ENERGY STAR. When buying a clothes washer from a retail outlet, request an ENERGY STAR qualified model to ensure that it is energy-efficient.
• Check the yellow EnergyGuide label. This label helps you determine how much energy it takes to operate the model, compare the energy use of similar models, and estimate annual operating costs.
• Choose a size that meets your household needs. ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washers are available in many sizes, ranging in capacity from 1.6 to 3.8 cubic feet. ENERGY STAR qualified models are also available in stackable and under-the-counter designs, which fit in smaller spaces.
• Choose a model with a high Modified Energy Factor (MEF) and a low Water Factor (WF). Modified Energy Factor (MEF) is a comprehensive measure of energy efficiency that considers the energy used by the washer, the energy used to heat the water, and the energy used to run the dryer. The higher the MEF, the more efficient the clothes washer. Water Factor (WF) measures the water efficiency and is calculated as gallons of water consumed per cubic foot of capacity. The lower the WF, the more efficient the clothes washer. Both MEF and WF are listed on the ENERGY STAR qualified product list:
• Look for several water level options. Choose a washing machine that has several options for adjusting the water level to fit the load.

Dishwashers

Replacing a dishwasher manufactured before 1994 with an ENERGY STAR qualified dishwasher can save you more than $30 a year in utility costs.

Earning the ENERGY STAR means a product meets strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the US Environmental Protection Agency and the US Department of Energy.

• ENERGY STAR qualified dishwashers use at least 41 percent less energy than the federal minimum standard for energy consumption.
• ENERGY STAR qualified dishwashers use much less water than conventional models. Saving water helps protect our nation's water supplies.
• Because they use less hot water compared to new conventional models, an ENERGY STAR qualified dishwasher saves about $90 over its lifetime.

Remember, saving energy prevents pollution. By choosing ENERGY STAR, you are helping prevent global warming and promote cleaner air without sacrificing the product quality and performance you expect.

You may also be interested to know that you can save extra energy while washing dishes, whether with a standard or an ENERGY STAR model:

• Run your dishwasher with a full load. Most of the energy used by a dishwasher goes to heat water. Since you can't decrease the amount of water used per cycle, fill your dishwasher to get the most from the energy used to run it.
• Avoid using the heat-dry, rinse-hold and pre-rinse features. Instead use your dishwasher's air-dry option.

Refrigerators & Freezers

Refrigerator Retirement Savings Calculator

Residential Refrigerators

ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerators require about half as much energy as models manufactured before 1993. ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerators provide energy savings without sacrificing the features you want.

Earning the ENERGY STAR

ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerator models use high efficiency compressors, improved insulation, and more precise temperature and defrost mechanisms to improve energy efficiency.

ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerator models use at least 20% less energy than required by current federal standards and 40% less energy than the conventional models sold in 2001. Many ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerator models include automatic ice-maker and through-the-door ice dispensers. Qualified models are also available with top, bottom, and side-by-side freezers.

ENERGY STAR qualified freezer models use at least 10% less energy than required by current federal standards. Qualified freezer models are available in three configurations:

• Upright freezers with automatic defrost
• Upright freezers with manual defrost
• Chest freezers with manual defrost only

ENERGY STAR compact refrigerators and freezers use at least 20% less energy than required by current federal standards. Compacts are models with volumes less than 7.75 cubic feet.

Remember, saving energy prevents pollution. In most households, the refrigerator is the single biggest energy consuming kitchen appliance. Replacing a refrigerator bought in 1990 with a new ENERGY STAR qualified model would save enough energy to light the average household for nearly four months.

You may also be interested to know that you can reduce the amount of energy your refrigerator or freezer uses, whether with a standard or an ENERGY STAR qualified model:

Position your refrigerator away from a heat source such as an oven, a dishwasher, or direct sunlight from a window.

To allow air to circulate around the condenser coils, leave a space between the wall or cabinets and the refrigerator or freezer and keep the coils clean.

• Make sure the door seals are airtight.
• Keep your refrigerator between 35 and 38 degrees Fahrenheit and your freezer at 0 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Minimize the amount of time the refrigerator door is open.
• Recycle older or second refrigerators.

Recycle My Old Fridge Campaign

Announcing a new, fun and engaging way to help you shed your old, energy-guzzling refrigerators, lower your utility bills, and protect the environment. Did you know there are more than 47 million fridges over ten years old in the U.S.? This new, nationwide effort, brought to you by the U.S. Department of Energy and the government's ENERGY STAR program, encourages every American who owns an old, inefficient refrigerator to take another step to save money, energy and the environment by recycling that old fridge. And if a replacement unit is needed, you can also save when you buy a new ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerator. Visit RecycleMyOldFridge.com for more information! Spread the word.

Appliances and Commercial Equipment Standards

The U.S. Department of Energy's Appliances and Commercial Equipment Standards Program (the Program) develops test procedures and minimum efficiency standards for residential appliances and commercial equipment. On this site, you can find out more about DOE's program, find the general rules and regulations that manufacturers need to comply with, and find the latest information on rule making, standards, and test procedures for specific products. We also welcome efficiency/environmental advocates, states, utilities, retailers and consumers to use this site as a way to participate in all stages of the rule making process.

Note for Residential Appliance and Commercial Equipment Consumers:

As mentioned above, the Program develops rules and regulations that manufacturers must adhere to in manufacturing products. These regulations apply to products manufactured for sale in as well as those imported into the United States. While the minimum energy efficiency standards require manufacturers to discontinue manufacturing products that do not meet the efficiency standards, products manufactured before the effective date of the new standards may still be sold.

Note for Residential Appliance and Commercial Equipment Consumers:

As mentioned above, the Program develops rules and regulations that manufacturers must adhere to in manufacturing products. These regulations apply to products manufactured for sale in as well as those imported into the United States. While the minimum energy efficiency standards require manufacturers to discontinue manufacturing products that do not meet the efficiency standards, products manufactured before the effective date of the new standards may still be sold.

Additionally, new performance standards do not make equipment that is already installed obsolete. There is no requirement for consumers to replace existing equipment before the time that they would normally replace those appliances or pieces of equipment. However, the Department encourages consumers to consider efficiency when making purchase decisions since savings in operating costs can more than offset any incremental increases in purchase price.

Energy-Efficient Appliances

Technology Snapshot & Benefits

Both immediate and indirect economic savings can come from energy-efficient appliances such as refrigerators, horizontal-axis washing machines, clothes dryers, dishwashers, etc. Immediate and continuing savings accrue from lower utility bills for electricity and/or water. The performance levels of these appliances meet, and generally exceed, those of industry standard models. As a case in point, consider household refrigeration. By the late 1970s, refrigerators reached their most inefficient performance by requiring about 1750 kiloWatt-hours per year to operate. Modern energy-efficient refrigerators provide the same or better service at 450-550 kiloWatt-hours per year, and they are much quieter in operation.

Estimated Cost Savings

The direct economic savings achieved by efficient appliances are a function of how much the appliance will be used, the performance level of the equipment being replaced, and local costs for utilities. When you replace older equipment, it is not uncommon for electricity consumption for that appliance to decrease by 50% or more. In general, if the appliance being replaced is more than 15 years old, and it is replaced with a state-of-the-art unit, you may expect utility savings of 20%-60% compared with the energy required by the previous appliance. Horizontal-axis washing machines typically save consumers 50% in both electric and water utilities. Additional savings come from reduced quantities of detergent.

Your monthly electrical bill is for all electricity used by all electrical loads in the building, so changing a single appliance will lower the bill, but in proportion to the amount of electricity formerly used by that appliance. If refrigeration represents 15-20% of your electric bill, a new refrigerator that is twice as efficient as the unit being replaced will lower your total bill by about 7-10%.

Any increase in initial cost is usually more than made up in monthly savings. See ACEEE's Most Energy-Efficient Appliances for more detailed information on appliances and savings.

Issues

Availability of the most energy-efficient appliances may be an issue. Sometimes the best equipment is in demand, which can mean that discounts and sale prices are either unavailable or of lower value. Over time, as manufacturers and suppliers clear inventories of less efficient models by offering discounts, expect the price of efficient appliances to come down as well.

Regional Issues

Primarily, regional issues involve supply, delivery, and installation.

Installation (Getting It Done)

Be sure to price shop and to get two or three (or more) prices. Inquire about installation and removal of your old unit. For any refrigeration unit, be sure that the refrigerant will be removed and recycled responsibly. Refrigerants are very potent greenhouse gases and must be captured and contained. Shopping for price and availability will give you perspective on the true costs of equipment and installation in your area.

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There is a whole lot more to energy efficient windows than you would think. The construction has gotten more complicated both in materials as well as design. These windows can have multiple layers of chemical coatings and reflective glazing as well as various gases between the panes. The function is not only to bring natural light into your living spaces but to help regulate temperatures by keeping out hot, humid air in the warmer months and keeping frigid air from penetrating the home in cooler months. Energy efficient windows also act as UV barriers to help prevent heating the homes inside temperature and can help prevent sunburns too. By using energy efficient windows throughout your home, you will create a more comfortable environment for you and your family to live while saving yourself some green on your energy bill.

There are generally two types of gas used with windows, Argon and Krypton. The purpose of the gas is to improve insulating properties between the panes in doubled paned windows. Reflective glass coatings are most effective against radiant heat (direct sunlight). Other low-e glass coatings affect what is called the U-value and R-value which determines how much heat passes through a substance and the ability of a material to resist transfer of heat. Talk to your window vendor or manufacturer about which gas and coatings are more appropriate for your climate. Remember, windows are typically about 10% of your house, but are often responsible for about 40-50% of the heat lost or gained.

Replacing windows is rarely cost-effective based solely on energy-savings. However, if you are planning to replace your windows because of maintenance or aesthetic reasons, make the most of the opportunity and consider sealing the "envelope" of your home by sealing the floors, doors, attic, electrical outlets and various other portals to the outside that can affect your energy use. You'll get new energy efficient windows, the comfort that comes with modern construction, and energy cost savings on your utility bill. A common tip to keep in mind for replacing windows is to place your hand on the glass of your windows; if the glass is the same temperature as the air outside, you may want to consider replacing them with energy efficient windows.

Windows Fundamentals

a. The head refers to the upper boundary of the window and represents the top of the entire window.

b. The jamb comes from the French for leg and supports the outer edge of the window (the left and right boundaries).

c. The frame is the entire outer portion of the window and the construct in which the sashes or other parts move.

d. Glazing is any process or material applied to panes of glass.

e. Panes are individual units of glass, divided by muntin bars.

f. A sash is an entire assembly of panes and is the part that generally moves.

g. The sill is the lower portion of the window, which usually protrudes out from the wall.

h. Muntin bars separate individual panes (also known as grilles or windowpane dividers).

Types of Windows

Single-Hung/Double Hung

• Sashes slide vertically
• In single-hung units, the bottom sash is the only sash that moves
• Ventilation regulated by widening vertical crack with bottom sash
• Screens possible on exterior/interior

Casement

• Hinges are located on one side
• Low air leakage rates (tighter seal than sliding windows)
• Better ventilation (larger area open to outside)
• Can catch passing breezes (window protrudes outside into wind)
• Screens installed on interior

Bow Window

• Similar to bay window, more actual windows
• Radiate out to form semi-circle

Bay Window

• Combination of three-plus windows
• Center made of one or more windows parallel with wall
• Outer windows angled back towards wall

Awning

• Similar to casement windows, but hinges at top
• Also open outward and lower leakage rates

Fixed Window

• Used mainly for adding exterior light to rooms
• Does not open or move
• Provides no ventilation

Skylight

• Installed in ceiling
• Parallel to roof
• Some models can open and provide ventilation
• Brings in more sunlight than a traditional wall window

Slider

• Similar to single/double hung windows, but turned on their side
• Either one or both sashes will be able to move and slide
• Provides ventilation as opening is widened by sashes

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Many times when people are thinking of ways they can make their home more energy efficient the Water Heater is frequently forgotten; "Out of Site Out of Mind." Ironically replacing your standard water heater with a tankless water heater can save the consumer 24% - 34% depending on the gallons of water used daily.

Making the decision to switch to a tankless water heater is only the beginning of many things to be considered. The consumer then will need to decide on:

• Fuel type
• Location, Size & Demand
• Application

There are basically three fuel types: Electric, Natural Gas and Propane. The most popular and most energy efficient is the Natural Gas. When utilizing a natural gas tankless water heater, special venting may need to be added. The location, size and demand takes into consideration on how large the home is, how many hot water sources there may be and the number of hot water sources that may be used simultaneously. Application is the actual model and unit that will be best suited for the consumer?s home and specific wants and needs.

All of these factors can be overwhelming; fortunately a professional plumber will do a site visit at the consumer?s home. At this point they will be able to advise the consumer on which system will best meet the needs for them and their home.

When replacing a standard water heater with a tankless water heater, the consumer not only saves money from the energy efficiency aspect but they can also possibly receive rebates. In addition there is a $300 tax credit for selected systems replaced in 2009.

Every day, more and more people are being educated on the value of being energy conscious. Tankless Water Heaters are one of the many contributions towards energy conservation.

For more information, use the helpful links below on tankless water heaters.

http://www.tanklesswaterheaterguide.com/
http://www.rinnai.us/
http://www.foreverhotwater.com/
http://www.oneok.com/tgs/about/conservation/tgs_residential.jsp

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Check back soon for more information on how to green your home's doors.

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Lighting an energy efficient home with CFLs (compact fluorescent bulbs) is as beautiful and diverse as traditional incandescent options and they will impact you where you will feel it most; your pocketbook. According to Austin Energy's website, CFLs are 66% more efficient and last six to ten times longer than standard incandescents. CFLs will also save you $20 to $30 per bulb in energy costs over their lifetime. This more than offsets their initial cost. The light produced by the various colors of CFLs is comfortable and warm or cool and bright, depending on what type you buy. They even come in dimmable and 3-way models now!

Energy efficient lighting will save you some green in unexpected ways as well. Did you know that standard incandescent bulbs produce 70% more heat than modern CFLs? That means your air conditioning system has to work that much harder to keep your home cool in the hot Texas months. If every household in the U.S. replaced one light bulb with a CFL, it would prevent as much power plant pollution as removing 800,000 cars from the road. Imagine the difference we can make if we replace all our bulbs!

CFLs contain a very small amount of mercury sealed within the glass tubing ? an average of 4 milligrams ? about the amount that would cover the tip of a ballpoint pen. By comparison, older thermometers contain about 500 milligrams of mercury ? an amount equal to the mercury in 125 CFLs. Mercury is an essential part of CFLs; it allows the bulb to be an efficient light source. No mercury is released when the bulbs are intact (not broken) or in use. Most makers of light bulbs have reduced mercury in their fluorescent lighting products. Thanks to technology advances and a commitment from members of the National Electrical Manufacturers Association, the average mercury content in CFLs has dropped at least 20 percent in the past year. Some manufacturers have even made further reductions, dropping mercury content to 1.4 ? 2.5 milligrams per light bulb.

Disposal of CFLs is as easy as a quick trip to your local Home Depot or IKEA stores. Both of these companies have made a commitment to a cleaner, healthier environment and they offer free proper disposal to the consumer. Austin Energy also has a drop off location at their Hazardous Waste Facility at 2514 Business Center Drive in South Austin. It is convenient and simple to save money responsibly by replacing tired incandescent bulbs with energy efficient CFLs in your home.

Energy efficient lighting solutions can be found in area stores, both big box and locally owned, and there are even discounts available through Austin Energy's website. Ask your vendor of choice which CFL will work best for your lighting task as there are many different options to choose from including: spirals and mini spirals, double, triple, and quadruple tubes, circle-line, cover-a-line, cover globe, and covered bullet or torpedo shapes.

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Check back soon for more information on how to green your home's flooring.

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"No occupation is so delightful to me as the culture of the earth, and no culture comparable to that of the garden."
-Thomas Jefferson

We are all becoming more aware of the alarming rate at which our planet is in need of our help. Together, we can shift our focus and make a difference! Creating an eco-friendly landscape is an easy way to give back to the environment while adding beauty to your lawn, saving money and enjoying natural beauty.

When we think of green architecture, sometimes we forget that our landscaping can have a big impact on how efficient and sustainable a residence or building can actually be. For example, a few strategically planted trees can help to cool off a building and reduce the amount of energy allocated to air conditioning. The following is a list of suggestions to create an eco-friendly landscape that will complement a holistic approach to green building design. Incorporating a few of these ideas will help you save energy and water, and also reduce environmental contamination.

(1) Incorporate Native Plants in Your Landscaping

When planning your landscape, consider using a collection of native plants. Native plants are adapted to your area, which means they naturally require less maintenance and water than exotic plants. They are also more resistant to pests and diseases than many exotics, reducing the need for pesticides. Additionally, native plants attract native wildlife and beneficial insects. You don't need to exclude exotic plants from your yard and garden, but incorporating natives in your design can make a big difference. The U.S. EPA's Greenacres Program is a great place to look for information on using native plants for home landscaping.

(2) Plant Deciduous Shade Trees to Reduce Energy Use

Planting deciduous trees (trees that drop their leaves in the fall) is a great way to cool your home and reduce your air conditioning costs during the summer. When these trees drop their leaves, they also allow sunlight to warm a home or building during the winter. To maximize the benefits of deciduous trees, plant tall trees on the east and west-facing sides of your house. This will help shade your home during the hottest months of the summer. Planting trees on the south facing side of your home can help shade the roof, as the sun will not hit that side of the house much during the summer. Make sure to prune trees so that at least a few branches are shading the roof and the air conditioning unit. This adds up to additional energy savings. The Utah State University Forestry Extension has more information on planting trees to maximize energy savings.

(3) Plant Evergreen Trees to Block Cold Winter Winds

Evergreen trees are very useful if you want to create a natural windbreak to reduce those chilly winds that hit your home during the winter. It's common to plant trees for windbreaks on the north and west sides of a home. However, you will need to determine the dominant wind direction for your area and plant upwind. Talk to your local extension agent for more information. Again, USU Forestry Extension has some great tips for selecting trees to block the wind.

(4) Use ?Xeriscaping? in Your Landscape

While Xeriscaping is mostly associated with the arid landscapes of the Southwestern U.S., its main concepts are applicable to all gardens and landscapes. The basic ideas of Xeriscaping are the use of efficient irrigation systems, low-water use plants, reducing turfgrass, and creating water-wise garden designs. There's a lot of info out there about Xeriscaping on the internet. Texas A&M has a website that is a great place to start learning about simple Xeriscaping principles.

(5) Use Efficient + Non-polluting Reel or Electric Lawn Mowers

While gas-powered mowers are a great time-saving device, there are alternatives that are cleaner, non-polluting and more energy efficient. Modern reel mowers are a great way to mow the lawn and get exercise at the same time. They are also easier to use than you might imagine. You can also read about different models of reel mowers here. If you have a large lawn, a reel mower may not be the best solution. In this case, consider a non-polluting electric mower (some of which are cordless!).

(6) Convert to Drip Irrigation Systems

Drip irrigation systems (micro-irrigation systems) deliver water directly to your plants with minimal waste. According to Colorado State University, drip irrigation systems are around 90 percent efficient, whereas traditional sprinkle systems are only around 50-70 percent efficient. Colorado State University's website is a good location for more info on drip irrigation systems.

(7) Cut Down on Energy Use with Solar Powered Landscaping Lights

While solar energy can still be expensive for a lot of homeowners, using a few solar powered landscaping lights can help to reduce your overall energy use. Here are a couple options for solar lights that you can check out.

(8) Use Rain Barrels to Irrigate + Landscape

You can cut back on your water use by storing water in rain barrels and using it to irrigate your garden and landscaping. Rainwater is naturally soft water that is chemical-free. Plants love it! Using rainwater also reduces municipal storm water runoff. The following link is a good source of information on using rain barrels for water collection.

(9) Compost!

Composting occurs in nature and is a process that keeps organic nutrients cycling from soil to plants and back to the soil. You can use organic waste from your home to return needed nutrients to the soil. Things like fruit peels, grass clipping, leaves, etc. are great materials to recycle and mix into garden soil. Composting has many benefits, including: (1) Reducing municipal waste, (2) Improving soil moisture retention, (3) Boosting plants' immune systems, and (4) Reducing the need for chemical fertilizers. This guide to garden composting has lots of tips for successful composting.

(10) Use Natural + Organic Products and Techniques for Landscape Maintenance

Try out a few organic pesticides or fertilizers and see what works for you. Even if you switch to just a couple of organic products, you'll be helping by reducing harmful wastewater runoff and creating a healthier environment for your family and pets. Mostly Organic Gardening is a website with lots of organic gardening tips.

(11) Grow a Small Kitchen Garden of Fruits + Vegetables

Harvesting your own fruits and vegetables is a great way to save money and live in a more sustainable way. Of course, it's always recommended to use natural and organic gardening techniques when you grow fruits and veggies.

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Basics about air conditioners

It's important to know that heating and cooling combined costs an average homeowner about $1,000/year; equaling almost half of a home's energy bill (energystar.com). Given this figure, it's easy to appreciate the financial impact heating and cooling system decisions have and the importance of making informed ones.

In its essence, an air conditioner cools and dehumidifies. For this article and for financial decision-making purposes, there are three components within which you'll find the majority of a/c system parts; the indoor component (air handler), the outdoor component (compressor), and the ductwork that distributes the air throughout the home.

Repair vs. replace

Sometimes a whole air conditioning system will break down. More likely, the internal or external component will break or separately need replacement. Many websites including austinenergy.com and energystar.com recommend replacement over repair if a unit is over 10-12 years old given their heavier use of energy.

The decision to repair or replace is difficult as you weigh the immediate gratification of a lower immediate cost (repair) and an extended life on the current unit vs. more money up front but longer, ongoing benefits a new unit provides. But the decision is often more complicated than that. If the repair includes replacing an entire component, the replacement piece may not reach its potential (as in efficiency) as its paired with an older component. It will be important to ask many questions of the HVAC (Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning) professional with whom you are working.

The benefits of purchasing a new a/c unit include lower energy usage and monthly energy bills, unit warranty, more predicable (on those hot days when you need it to work), and potentially securing a City of Austin cash rebate. There is the Green payoff as well. The new units are more ozone friendly, emitting less of the ?bad stuff? partially because they use less energy but also because there are new types of coolants being used that are more environmentally friendly.

To calculate how long it will take to pay off a new a/c unit, ask your HVAC contractor do the number crunching. A new unit would likely mean lower energy bills, fewer service calls and a warranty so these will need to be taken into consideration to give an estimate. After the new unit has been paid off, the rest, as they say, is gravy; a return on investment. And if energy prices continue to rise, your payback will simply come faster.

Features

Older air conditioner could be using up to 40% more energy than the efficient models sold to consumers today (austinenergy.com) but they there is much variation in today's models. Here are some features and differences to look for and consider when making a decision.

• Two-speed units are a popular new feature that provide more consistent cooling at half the speed (low-speed) but stays on for a longer period. This reduces the number of times the unit cycles on (when it draws the most energy) and helps maintain a more consistent temperature.
• SEER; Seasonal Energy Rating and more. A 13 SEER rated unit is estimated to use 30-33% less electricity than a 10 SEER system. 10 SEER was the government requirement's minimum rating for new production and as of 2006 it is 13 SEER. Jan. 1, 2009 only 14 SEER systems and higher will be produced with today's state-of-the art unit currently at 21 SEER.
• Air conditioning units come in different sizes. Bigger does not mean better. If it's too big, it will be strong and cool down a room before it has dehumidified it leaving rooms cold and clammy ? not comfortable. A professional HVAC should plug in the measurements of your home to get an accurate idea of what size unit will do the best job.
• Every unit has a Sound Rating Number (SNR). The range is 0-13 bels with most emitting sound somewhere between an 8-9. Keep in mind, the difference BETWEEN an 8 bel unit and a 9 bel is ten times the sound.

Maintenance, Efficiency and Cost

Like getting an oil change regularly in your car (you do, right?), make regular maintenance on your a/c a promise you keep. Like oil changes, it pays off.

First, make sure your existing indoor a/c system has an emergency drain pan. Leaks in the ceiling are often caused by a/c drain pans from older units that don't have auto cut-off switches.

Next, during maintenance have the pvc piping flushed so the water (condensation collected) is drained appropriately and, you'll have that emergency pan there just in case it isn't!

Third: replace, replace, replace filters. Read the information on the filters. The higher the rating the better job they do at cleaning your air (it does make a difference) and keeping you're a/c unit and ducts clean. The dirtier the filter is, the harder the a/c unit has to work to draw air through the filter every time, too, increasing the energy usage.

Programmable thermostats

The City of Austin together with Austin Energy is giving away free programmable thermostats along with free installation: Austin Energy Power Partner Program

This program is designed to lower a home's use of energy - especially during those hot, peek summer hours. A bigger reason behind the plan is to delay the need for Austin to build an additional power plant. The programmable thermostat program, called the Power Partner Program, cycles off air conditioners for short durations during these peek times, allowing demand to be more level. They are estimated to save the consumer between 10-20% annually on energy bills. Visit the site to sign up, get more information and take a look at their Thermostat Savings Calculator.

Additional web resources:
www.airconditioning-and-heating.com
www.austinenergy.com
www.energystar.gov

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Green Building from the Ground Up

There are so many decisions to make when you decide to build your own green home. But before you charge out to find those fabulous lowE2 triple-pane krypton gas windows, you need to step back and begin at the very beginning-a green building site.

So where is your idea of heaven?..

An in-town urban oasis? A suburban neighborhood with room to roam? A rambling spread out in the country? Wherever you envision building your green dream home, here are some tips to help you shop for the greenest building sites available.

Smaller lots in established neighborhoods increase building density while utilizing established infrastructure (roads, power lines, etc.). If possible, choose locales near public transportation and within walking/biking distance to schools, shopping or work. Find a site near green-belts, parks, preserves and conservation areas. Look for a place that allows you to build without disturbing the natural landscape. If clearing and grading are necessary, choose a site where you can plan your building pad for the smallest footprint possible. Select a location where you will be able to prune judiciously (if at all) with an eye towards tree preservation and erosion control, then plan on replacing any trees removed.

As a conscientious green consumer, you seek the greenest options from the available choices. Be it safe cleaning products, organic foods, or green housing, progress is built on consumer demand. With more than 13 million people estimated to move to Texas by 2030, we need to start demanding more and better responsible planning for our growth. So while you are out shopping for your little corner of green heaven, ask questions. Ask developers how they are incorporating conservation practices into their developments. Ask land sellers what they've done to preserve trees, minimize erosion, and maintain aquifer recharge zones. The more we ask for them, the better our choices will be.

Content provided by Elena Lipkowski, EcoBroker®, Land Specialist

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House image at top courtesy of Austin Energy and Texas Gas Service